Previously I posted that I was installing my own home security system using DSC’s Power Series (rather than using newer, flashier protocols such as Z-Wave of Zigbee). Here in Part II of the series, I’ll show the steps required in installing the hardware of a DSC PowerSeries 1616 (also applicable to models 1832 and 1864).
DIY Home Security Series Contents
- Part I: System Selection
- Part II: Hardware Installation you are here
- Part III: Programming
- Part IV: Interfacing with Automation (coming soon)
Installing a DSC PowerSeries 1616/1832/1864 system is slightly more complicated than other products, including DSC’s own PowerSeries9047 all-in-one panel. The difference between the two is kind of like the difference between a component stereo system and a boombox: a component stereo system takes time to set up but you have more options available to you; a boombox can play music right off the bat, but there is limited expandability. To recap one of the major points from Part I, we want to eventually be able to hook up the resulting system to a computer for automation purposes: this is something that the PowerSeries9047 and other products won’t allow.
Most PowerSeries 1616/1832/1864 (henceforth just referred to as 1616) kits, including what I linked to in Part I, include the following core components:
- Keypad: Using the keypad is the primary way you will arm, disarm, and program the system. Also, any DSC keypad with an “RF” in front of the model number also doubles as the wireless antenna, so the installation of the primary keypad in a central location to your house is key. I will only be covering installation of one keypad, though DSC supports installation of multiple keypads.
- Control Panel: The control panel is the “brains” of the security system. It should be placed close to where the keypad so you don’t have to have a long cable-run.
- Bell: It’s not really a “bell”, but rather a very high-volume siren that’s going to be an essential component in any system not monitored by an external monitoring agency. For ease of installation, this should also be placed close to the control panel, but in a place where it’s sound will not be muffled. Typical installations will mount it high on the wall above the keypad. If not installed (not recommended in an unmonitored installation), a 1000 Ω resistor should be installed.
The installation of a DSC system starts at the Control Panel. Because DSC supports both wired and wireless zones, unused wired zones on the control panel will need to have 5,600 Ω resistors installed (included with most DSC control panel kits). Most home users like me will want to install all such resistors, as we will be installing purely wireless-zone systems.
Before we can get to the wireless parts, we need to wire up the KEYBUS devices: our IT-100 serial interface and the keypad. You will need at least 22 gauge 4-conductor wireto connect the KEYBUS.
To better illustrate, here’s a picture of my control panel installation:
There are a couple other items of note in the above picture.
- The KEYBUS 4-conductor wires go to both the IT-100 (yellow insulated) and the keypad (white insulated).
- Anything from 18 to 22 gauge wire can be used. Typical installations where under 3000′ of wire will be run will be fine with 22 gauge, though the maximum distance between the control panel and any KEYBUS device (keypad, IT-100) should be kept to 1000′ or less.
- If the system is not connected to a phone line (as pictured above), it will show a trouble for the phone line unless you disable phone line monitoring by entering “* 8 [INSTALLER CODE] 015 7 ##” on the keypad (the default installer code is 5555).
The only thing left to do is connect the AC and battery backup. Once again, 22 gauge wire is OK for a very short AC cable run, but I used 18 gauge 2 conductor wire. All wire necessary for connecting the battery should be included in your kit, and installation should be self-explanatory.
I’ll have more about programming the zones, including a command cheat-sheet, in the next installment of the series.